Surf is an export in which the goal is to slide on a wave using a surfboard and enjoy the freedom of the sea. There are many who practice these days, but it has not always been so. Before learning how to surf, let’s know a bit more about the history of surfing.
The origin of surfing is not entirely certain. There are 2 peoples claiming their origin and they were the first to slide over the waves, being them the Peruvians and the Polynesians.
One sure thing is that it was the Polynesians taking the Surf to Hawaii that was the site that propelled this activity to another level.
But this activity was not yet a sport and was practiced almost only by the locals, who made their own wooden boards, believing that in doing so they would transmit to the board all their positive energies and when they were at sea expelled all the negative energy.
What made surfing start to gain popularity and eventually become what it is today was Hawaiian Duke Paoa Kahanamoku at 1912 after being a Swimming champion at the first Olympics in the modern era saying “he only trained to paddle and to climb onto a wooden plank. ”
And with him going to various parts of the world spreading the sport, he began to grow until in 1970 many young people began to surf and develop more and more the sport.
Learning How to Surf
Want to learn how to surf and still do not know where to start? If that’s your dilemma then check out the tips we’ll get you now.
The first thing you should do is look for an instructor or surf school that is close to you (there is probably always one if you live near the coast). He will teach you almost everything you need to know and help you correct what you are doing wrong.
The board you should use at the beginning are not the ones you most probably see. The most suitable board for those who are learning to surf are the longboards ou funboards, since these are longer and wider and offer greater stability on the board. If possible, try to find a place to rent boards and save some money at first.
In the sand…
Almost all instructors begin by teaching in the sand and do well. Here you should train your posture on the plank and most importantly, how to get up on the plank and after supporting properly.
You should realize that it is easier to learn this in the sand and do it many times than at sea and always fall and take forever to try again.
One of the most basic and simple things is the use of paraffin on the board. When applying paraffin on the board, always in circles, you will greatly increase its grip and thus make it easier to stay on top of the board and not to fall immediately.
Already in the water, something that is fundamental for you to move in the water and to be able to catch the waves that wants to rowing. It should give long and strong fathoms, making the hand enter the water stretched and when it leaves it comes almost in the form of a shell (thus pushing the water back).
If you do it correctly, then half way will already be done.
You should always choose the correct wave (usually the one that will get bigger and that brings greater volume of water). Of course this is not always easy, but with experience and a little instinct you will begin to perceive better.
You should also be aware if this tide is low or high. If it is a reef zone and the tide is low then remember that the water level will be equally low. If it is high, the waves will probably burst in the sand.
Balance and Concentration
As you might imagine, surfing is a matter of balance. You should make a push with your arms in the chest area and firmly support your legs without using your elbows. The leg that is most comfortable for you should be at the front and center of the board as if it were divided by a line along its length.
To stay balanced you should flex your legs, lower your hips and use your arms to guide yourself, lowering your center of gravity. When you want to turn, you should tilt your shoulder slightly in that direction and stretch your forearm in that direction as well.
What you can not forget is to stay focused and thus avoid any distraction complications.
Even if it is the best in the world, it will always have to fall eventually … For that reason do not despair if at the beginning when you are learning how to surf you fall often. Remember to avoid falling over your head and do not use the board as a shield. She is bound by leach and this can make her hit you.
Protection and Equipment
We have already defined which is the board that you must use, now the clothes are missing. Must wear a rubber suit, as you may have seen many surfers with them. These facts essentially serve to protect you from the icy temperatures of the water and thus help you to stay in the water longer. They also help to avoid the burns that have to be with the chest on the board and some scratches that can happen.
A warning: It’s not because you’re dressed that you’re not going to get scalded. You should always wear sunscreen all over your body to protect yourself from the sun’s rays. Regular surfers have a higher rate of skin cancer, so you should take good care of yours.
If you follow these tips, along with what your instructor, if you can arrange, give it to you then you will be prepared to start learning how to surf and catch waves.